May 2 boredom 

Not quite there yet . After 13 days straight of consistent surf the board arrives and then on cue the surf goes flat . A bit like the tv . So banal. 15 million people live here and all we get is the same 3 stories on all day repeat on multiple news channels . We have multiple channels that talk trump and his policies 24 hours a day . Now I know I live at the self proclaimed centre of the universe but fuck is this it ? Does anyone else live out there ? I haven’t mastered my car radio yet as I’m still on high alert mode as  I nearly went head onto incoming traffic once again .After mounting the curb to avoid the carnage it’s probably the only bit of surfing I’ve done so far . Oh yeah the radio is stuck on the top40 station . The rap crap that plays here is is astonishingly bad .Dominated by that gangster sound that one particular group puts out there on mass . No wonder they like to shoot each other from time to time .Lets get positive it is another perfect day out there and guess what I’m gonna work on my tan real soon