I know I gotta be careful and not turn this blog into a surf journal but it is a big part of my reinvention process at the moment . I’m prone to work best off a structured program : get the kids to school as quick as possible , get a car park b4 10 am so as it is free and of course, get a wave before the sea breeze arrives . Fucking priority! The day ain’t any good until those boxes are ticked . Then of course I can dedicate myself to the less important .Anyway a bit of gush today . It’s one of those steely grey ,still days . You can see right around the coast in both directions and straight out to sea you can see an island . Probably Catalina . You get days like this in Mornington where you can look across the bay to Melbourne and almost touch it . Here , a rarity but today is the 1st since arriving.And the surf,nice .Couldve pictured yourself at mills beach or safety beach with perfect uncrowded rollers coming through .Its not Australia but sometimes it gets close.
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