Weekend over (more to tell there) ,kids dropped off ,check the waves . Holy shit it’s real good .In fact I was wondering if the waves would ever match some of the photos I’ve seen on line and posted all over the surf shop walls . Today’s the day . After all that drinking and giving up my precious time to keep the wife and kids happy (didn’t go surfing thought I might be pushing it) it was gonna be all me time .Oh yeah. It was going exceedingly well until I thought I could wind the clock back and stuff myself into a nice little tube . On take off i shit myself and tried to bail out ,but too late .I copped a beating and took a heavy whack to the foot . Nah,she’ll be right i’l get that one back and have a real long session ,might even come back b4 picking the kids up later. But the buzzing in my foot continues ,and there it is ,a nice big slash. Fucking great.With continuous shark sitings everyday i get out pretty quick .Igot to the beach and some chick helped me ,said to get to the fire brigade /life guards and they’ll treat it . Shi yat , I might break my own pact and have to hit the doctors . I’ve decided it’s my goal not to pay for anything medical, so I’ve hit the chemist instead .Antibiotics ,bandaids ect ,even hoping to surf tomorrow .On the other hand Jerry Springer might get a real workout.
cleaned up pretty well I reckon , no doc required. Please …….
May30 slice of luck
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