July 12 summer

Ok it’s here and the kids are on holidays.Ive been talking to the local surfers and shapers before summer arrived and they assured me the surf will fade . There is less swell and often you get swell from the South which bypasses the region .I thought that they might of been a bit precious as I’d always found something , even on the smallest of days . It seems they don’t like surfing a shore break , so I’d often be out alone catching some little rippers before they hit the sand .As a consequence I’ve lost 2 fins but it’s been worth it . Now there’s been a shift , the swell has considerably weakened and the bigger surf coming from the South only just touches us and when it does , like today , it’s practically unrideable as it breaks too fast and shuts down .Its a major frustration when you’re bored and you need an outlet . There’s still a lot of summer left and I have a growing fear that long flat spells will be the norm . There’s a lot of things I don’t like about LA but I do love being so close to the ocean .The Pacific Ocean in California. If you told me we’d move to a surf coastal town I would of been thinking of Queensland or NSW but here ? I would of told you you we’re dreaming .Apart from our PalmSprings sojourn we’ve been swimming or surfing almost everyday .I am homesick in a big way but there is something that I really like about this type of lifestyle . We’l settle back in Australia but  will it be back in Mornington? The boys and  I are developing a taste for the climate and the ocean . You can walk most days and always see something . Zoom in on the previous photo and look out into the water past the boy . 

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