Ok it’s here and the kids are on holidays.Ive been talking to the local surfers and shapers before summer arrived and they assured me the surf will fade . There is less swell and often you get swell from the South which bypasses the region .I thought that they might of been a bit precious as I’d always found something , even on the smallest of days . It seems they don’t like surfing a shore break , so I’d often be out alone catching some little rippers before they hit the sand .As a consequence I’ve lost 2 fins but it’s been worth it . Now there’s been a shift , the swell has considerably weakened and the bigger surf coming from the South only just touches us and when it does , like today , it’s practically unrideable as it breaks too fast and shuts down .Its a major frustration when you’re bored and you need an outlet . There’s still a lot of summer left and I have a growing fear that long flat spells will be the norm . There’s a lot of things I don’t like about LA but I do love being so close to the ocean .The Pacific Ocean in California. If you told me we’d move to a surf coastal town I would of been thinking of Queensland or NSW but here ? I would of told you you we’re dreaming .Apart from our PalmSprings sojourn we’ve been swimming or surfing almost everyday .I am homesick in a big way but there is something that I really like about this type of lifestyle . We’l settle back in Australia but will it be back in Mornington? The boys and I are developing a taste for the climate and the ocean . 


You can walk most days and always see something . Zoom in on the previous photo and look out into the water past the boy .