July 15 all sorts 

I’ve harped on  this a lot, but the beach brings out all sorts . Why not ? Everyone loves the beach . Out in the surf it’s much the same . The thing is the yanks have got a polite happy disposition and they don’t mind sharing . I don’t . I really think this is an Aussie cultural thing that is inbred . We play for keeps and we are dammed competitive . ‘Aggressive’ , that’s our sporting trademark . Unfortunately I’m not talented but aggression is my old soul mate . I will often find my own little spot along the coast  but it doesn’t take long before some inquisitive yank catches on to my game . Smiling and paddling over on his long board or worse , his stand up paddle board .I’m forced into attack mode . Catch every wave in sight , is my motto . Childish , I know but it works as they generally vacate after 5 minutes . I do feel guilty ,  fuck it no I don’t . Anyway this place is set up for all Surfing types and you see them . You’ve got the ‘stretcher’ , he’s the dude that stretches for 5 minutes out front , declaring politely that he intends to surf with you . You’ve got the Mexicans and South Americans who ride really short boards and love catching the small waves.A lot like the Japanese. My favurite is the Fundie, the old guy who just wants to catch some waves with you with a big smile on his face . He’s predominately a nuisance and is always in the spot you intended to be in . His craft : mal , standup or boogieboard, often with one booty on and a webbed glove from the 80s . Ok , I’m not Kelly Slater and if I really admit it I’m only a couple of years younger than these guys . Shit I’m going to be one of these guys eventually and that’s depressing ,but you’ve gotta concede that’s not so bad . Better than sitting on the couch worrying about your triglycerides .Most perplexing is your swimmer. They’ll often swim straight through the lineup. Yeah they’ve got their rights but why enforce it whilst trying to get a surfers fin embedded in your head. Finally , you can be surfing alone and before long a small crowd of beach dwellers will huddle in close to get a good view. Next thing you know you’ve got the lifeguard asking me to move on as the swimmers are too close to me . Now that’s fucked up and it has happened to me .On summer days you’ve got to surf early as the beach fills during the day forcing lifeguards to move you on . You have to surf under the two piers . Problem is the waves are often shit here ,but the water is that crowded you’ve got no choice or rights. Yep I know I’m whinging and I’m spoilt but I’m just saying these are the tough hurdles I have to deal with.