October 7 it does happen 

They’ve been calling it for a while , a long range swell . You get sceptical , it’s been said and not delivered on at least 3 occasions . They get excited about their size forcast , up to 8 feet they reckon . There’s been 5 genuine days above thigh height in the last 3 months .I slipped down to my local on Friday and couldn’t get a car park , up to my back up , no all full here too .Shit , last option Elporto , all full , too WTF! On giving up I scored a car park on my last lap . I knew there’d be crowds but Friday delivered on my fear . This joint has been quiet ,even when there was surf . Today was a reality check , this is city surfing . A one mile stretch of coast with at least a thousand guys out , no joke . I guts it and head out , it’s not Australia and thank fuck for that . It was a circus out , but the yanks in general aren’t much chop out in the waves . There’s still some quality dudes that need respect but we Aussies surf with a different attitude . It’s dog eat dog in Aus but here there’s more love . They’re happy to be out in the ambience and sharing is ok , what? That is un Australian .Yep ,it was a fuckn mess out there , surfings basic rules disappeared. You see wave , you take off . Knee boards , body boards , SUPs , mals , body surfers , short boards , helmets , booties , gloves , 70 year olds , girls in bikinis , the fuckn works ! You gotta laugh , cause this is everyone’s ocean and we’ve all been waiting all summer long for waves  and your in one of the most populated surfing locations on earth . By Saturday the surf has turned it on and some of the heaviest shore breakers I’ve ever experienced have arrived . For the first time there are conditions that hold fear , powerful 4 to 5 feet waves breaking as close as 20 meters from shore , and with thick crowds . Every dog has its day and this Californian chihuahua turned into a Rottweiler today . Yep ,this joint is all bark and no bite , but today it’s biting , big time !