December 10 still

The weather has totally stalled . The days are breathless . The air is surprisingly clear and most importantly Tex is staying at his mates house . Yep , the house is in peace when Tex is not here .A long range swell has crept in , creating powerful waves that march in between long flat spells . … Tex has come back home this morning and he’s at his no sleep aggressive self . Everyone’s a pussy and Leroys baring the brunt of his usual arseholeness . “We goin surfin ” .. “Not yet Tex , the tide is too low ” … “I wanna go now , ” .. “Be patient it’s closing out “. “Let’s check out the front”….. “Ok” In the mean time Leroy is raging and we’ve had multiple fights and screaming as Tex is merciless. We check it out and Tex has sprinted home declaring that he’s going out at the pier . On the way home he’s rang my phone screaming that he’s waiting … That’s when it occurs to me , I’ve got a surprise for you , you little prick . I’ve been here long enough to know that a short 5 km drive north to Elporto will see a substantial rise in size .He’s up for anything and before you know it we are in the car . On arrival at Elporto we are met by glassy , powerful 4 to occasionally 6 feet waves that break hollow and quick . Shit , I’m feeling guilty , a little worried . There’s a lot of brutal waves and the highest percentage of top quality surfers that I’ve seen outside of the GoldCoast . ” Shit Texy ,maybe we should head back and find something smaller and a bit more quiet ” …. “Nah , what are ya a puss dad . We’l go down there where there’s less people “. Yeah Tex there’s no one there for a reas/. ” Dad I’m goin down there ya pussy..,… Fuck it , let’s do it , this is going to be fun . What makes it even better is two young girls also paddle out to where we are going ( pretty too ) . Tex has to go .We both get out unscathed and I’ve caught a couple of small ones when I give Tex the nod . Some serious chin music marches in ,the scramble is on . I make it through a serious fuckn bomb and look back at poor old Texy . ….Fucking destroyed , obliterated , his board sits up like a tombstone while the little fucker submarines along the bottom . I’m in raptures , laughing out loud . He gets up and then is creamed again by the next one . I’m so happy , sooooo pleased with myself. Eventually he gets out the back . “What happened Tex ” “I got fuckn smashed dad ,what do you think? ” .. I’m pissing myself laughing . Honestly , he can hardly surf but i’l say this ;he’s got balls , he’s a tough little fucker and when he’s angry( often) he’s hilarious . ” I thought the waves weren’t big Tex?”….,.,, “Shut up dad “. A couple of minutes later I watch a heavy lefthander come through . Tex is in the spot , he’s going for it . Oh no , don’t do it Texy .But the little fucker goes . He gets up all awkward and wrong , with guys watching from the shoulder , the poor little fuckers gonna get it , …. That’s when it happens . This wave barrels clean over the top of him , he doesn’t make it but all the dudes hoot him …. That little c:;:t .. .. “Dad did you see that ” . “What?” “Ya missed it , I got barrelled and everyone hooted me “. ” Bullshit” ” Dad it’s true. ! You can get fucked ” Yeah it’s hard to comprehend , I don’t like him but I begrudgingly respect him . He’s an absolute prick….,, but he’s mine .