December best laid plans

It’s Friday, surf looks good . Yep , I’ve mapped out my routine . Kids Christmas presents , later . Tide 730 , swell 4 to 6 feet = straight after school drop off . Elporto , only place going . LA s premier surfing location , I’l be there . Crowded , of course . Options , sweet fuck all .Its nerve racking . Anticipation meets reality . Hiccup , Leroys gone down sick . Whaddya do ? You tell him to wait on the beach and watch daddy do some surfing while he gets warm in the sun . I’m doing the best for him . After all he’s not in school , he’s sick and he gets to go to the beach to inhale the salt air . Result = well worth it . I feel much better .