There’s change

It’s funny how it happens . I remember the same patterns back in Melbourne . After a month long hot spell , with unusually high humidity the weather feels as if it has turned . Just in tune with the kids going back to school , the all day beach weather has dissipated . The ceiling fans that have ran nearly 24 hours are only needed in the heat of the afternoon and only on some nights . Nearly 3 months of calm seas and sweltering haze has turned into cool quiet mornings , with sea fog and lines in the water . Yes , that’s what keeps my attention more than anything else when I stop to look out the doors , or when I’m driving down the streets . When I pick Leroy up from school and drive up over the rise I’m looking for signs …….. lines ? Where the fuck are they , surely they’l creep in from the horizon . The Pacific is dormant here from late June to early September , that’s what everybody tells me . Except last year it was more like July until November . I’ve been repeatedly told that the last 2 years have been the worst in memory . That makes me laugh , I’ve been here for 18 months of it . But on the 1st day back at school what happens ? A north west wind swell pushes into meet a long range south swell . The south swells originate way down in Mexico , fuelled by off shore hurricanes and storms . By the time the southerly swells reach LA they push in and close out at 2 to 4 feet most of the time . The north west swells that originate off Canada spin out into the Ocean above San Francisco into the colder water pushing short range peaky waves into LA . 3 consecutive days of actually rideable waves has eventuated . Still weak , and not big enough to surf out the front of my house but they’re breaking and Elporto is the place . There’s no choice , that’s where I’ve gotta go ……. with everybody else .I’ve been fortunate to tap into it for all 3 days , each day feeling a little better than the last . I think it’s a little cooler than this time last year , although the water is still warm enough to surf in board shorts and a vest or a spring suit. Elporto sits right below the school spa . I park my car in the spa car park , suit up and walk down . At the end of the surf I’m in the spa at 1030 ready to go .Everything seems quiet , now that school has started , but the waves ……. they’ve just got busier …I was fortunate to find this little right out the front of the Chevron plant . I don’t know why but it’s always quiet here , I guess the ugly monster out front scares people …….. good. It’s been a long drought but I think it’s over , back to normal transmission, bring on the waves