Melbournesque , that’s how I’d describe it . It’s real this time . I’ve had a lot of fun shitcanning weather reports and predictions in LA . It’s nearly always been exaggerated when it comes to rain and potential storms , but recently we’ve had a pretty good run . Its rained more in the last 2 weeks than it has in the entire 20 months since we’ve arrived , and there’s more to come . It’s pouring down here today and there’s rain forecast for the next 5 days . It’s not just the rain , it’s pretty bloody cold . Right now at 125 pm it is 10 degrees Celsius , with the expected top of just 12. 12 degrees! The traffic is insane in these conditions , our area goes into gridlock and the news coverage of the carnage on the roads here is something to be seen . 
Of course there’s been a silver lining , the ocean . It’s been beautiful . 
A sheet of metallic silver with hints of violet and even mauve , only broken by corduroy and slamming slabs of whitewater .
Yeah , it’s been pumping .Sceptical to say the least , was my thoughts on cold winters and good surf here . Everyone kept telling me that the last winter was one of the warmest and just about the worst for waves in living memory. In fact everyone was saying that about the last 18 months . Shit , that’s when I got here . Am I fucking cursed or is this more likely the ‘talk up factor ‘ that I’ve become tired of hearing about ?I had formed the conclusion that good waves , rain and cold weather were just a little bit exaggerated. I stand corrected .
At 49 I still picture myself at 25 . I’ll check the spots I like to surf and then see myself having my way with these soft Californian waves . Only thing is ;they haven’t been . This is the most beat downs I’ve experienced in a lifetime . That’s another factor that is very misleading about conditions here . The water always looks tranquil , manageable and rarely intimidating . 
It doesn’t have that roar edge that you instantly identify when scoping out surf on the Mornington Peninsula . You know what you’re up for most of the time in Victoria, here these waves don’t show their teeth until you’re out there . The water temperature is still a pretty pleasant 16 degrees Celsius , actually warmer than the air itself . Booties are not required , but the cold off shore winds are bone chilling when you sit still . The heart rate has been pulsing like a blender at times . The sand bars are not solidly formed , a soft wave may come from one direction only to be followed with a rolling bus surging from the opposite . There are nearly never any rips but now they’ve surfaced and it is these conditions that create the best waves . The waves tend to break right through a middle of a rip , back home the rip would be in the Chanel where the soft water lies ( hence their extreme danger ) .You’l often find yourself paddling like a madman to get closer to shore only to look around and see a couple of large bombs rise up out of nowhere , you then have to scramble back out to try and get under these waves . I’ve had a couple of serious hold downs when caught in this situation . These type of conditions can actually hold some serious size ,6 to 8 foot wedges would scatter the pack , rattling ones confidence . The lulls would then produce excellent , comfortable riding conditions . Gaining composure has been key , a couple of times I was shaken up enough to nearly concede . Out of the woodwork a procession of hot young kids has been regularly surfing my breaks . It’s fair to say I know I’m 49 . My back , shoulders and knees know they’ve been busy , so has the heart and the sphincter valve . ….. Winter , it’s real , even in LA , so are the waves .
aussiehowieinla 