Well pups, we’ll be in that twilight zone right about now in 6/7 days time . You see ,this morning was the sweetest of mornings . That new swell ? It’s been here for 3 days now , god bless it . It wasn’t until I was walking down the beach about 500 m from our joint that it struck a cord . The regular 930am Qantas flight caught my eye . You see it every morning take off over El Segundo , 15 minutes north of us . I was anxious , twitching a bit , chewing on the bottom lip ,scanning my little spot I’d gravitated to . Fuck , there’s 3 guys on it . Motherfuckers , that’s my little secret ;but today it’s no secret and by tomorrow if this swell stays as predicted it’ll be everybody’s little secret . ………..Fuck it , I’m not going out there , I’ll find something else , but geezus it’s nearly as good as I’ve ever seen it here .That’s when I saw the flying kangaroo take off on the red bird . I paused ,shit we’ll be on her or one of her sisters this time next week , about 9 hours in , probably in that pain zone of a long haul flight (15hours) . We leave Thursday night and arrive Saturday morning , missing the whole of Friday in that weird quirk of crossing the dateline.Thats when I thought it’d be great if I could get a session in on the waves next week before I fly out . That’d be perfect scripting . You reminisce on all those big night outs you had planned when you were young . Getting a good surf on the day of the big night set you up beautifully . No matter the pressure to pick up or to enjoy the night you were already satisfied. The pressure was off . 
Back to looking at my spot ……… it was firing , everywhere is firing . Nah I feel it now , I’ve seen my old Qantas flight take off and I feel better . I’m out to my ‘secret spot ‘ , a fat right right hand beach break standing out like a pair of balls on a stud pit bull . Did I say 3 people? That’s spoilt . Put this wave into most Australian beaches and there’d be a pack of 10 to 20 guys chewing this joint out . Only one Aussie today . 20 minutes later I had racked up a fistful of waves and still had 2 hours left in me . Shit it’s tough .
Tomorrow: Hearts of Hermosa , the major school fundraiser and big night out for the year . Surf report: 3 to 6 foot ,think I’ll be satisfied tomorrow night . Next Thursday it won’t matter , I’ll be satisfied to get on that flying kangaroo , surf or no surf . See you soon . 
Straight out front. It’s actually about 4 foot and it’s a rare occurrence ,but this winter it’s been on .
aussiehowieinla 