No , not again . 3rd time in 5 weeks ,with almost nothing in between . It never used to bother me , it was far enough away to not eat me up too much . You got up for work , navigated the traffic and occasionally day dreamed about being somewhere else . I was too busy , and then to drive down there and find some uncrowded coast was an added gamble . You accepted your lot and looked upon the locals with envy .”The fuckers don’t know how good they’ve got it .” I’ve got commitments…”Man the fuck up and own you’re responsibility ” ,I’d say to myself . I’d look at the webcams and the reports at morning tea .hmmm can I smash the meters out and sneak out early and get back for school pickup ? …..No chance champ 
It’s at my doorstep , I can gauge it most days . With the forecast of a midweek storm I saw problems , I’d already committed to extra clientele ,you feel obligated , it’s your job and the corporate approach of always growing , doing more , making more . The company needs you to grow ……Ahhhh fuck , can’t I grow in flat spells and then hibernate when it pumps . I know I’m 50 ,I’m not 20 anymore but geezus if I see it I’ve gotta have it …right ? No dickhead ,the honeymoons over ,you’re working now like you always used to . But I’m a local now ( well sort of ) , it’s my turn to be the guy who always seems to be here at the right time ,always working when I want and always not working when the waves are on …..No ,dick head .
The 1st storm of late summer has been predicted , a flash 24 hour shot of potential rain , with it was a small window of much needed surf , but only a short period event . The night before provided a vivid back drop . 
When I woke the next morning I could hear wind and the crashing sound of surf . I looked out the front door as soon as it was light enough to see and thank good it was howling on shore . The wind rarely blows up on the coast of LA ,and it’s super rare for the mornings to be anything but still . I go to work relieved . ” Don’t worry , you’re not missing out …and grow the fuck up , you’re not some young kid anymore .
On my return home to get Leroy from work I take the coastal route ,actually I always take the coastal route . I’m shocked , the wind has turned off shore in the afternoon , this never happens . “That is fucken bullshit !”, I declare to myself . I start to scheme on ways I can upload Leroy , but reality sets in …. I can’t , we’ve got too much on . Then I really get depressed when I think about tomorrow, it’ll be perfect .
The next morning I wake to the sounds of crashing waves .Emma leaves the house early to grab some stuff for work from a baker (super rare to see bakeries in LA ) up the road . On her return I ask her how the waves are , its a game I play with her often as she usually goes for a walk at dawn every other day with a girl friend . Emma usually rolls here yes when I ask . She wouldn’t know or doesn’t care ,but today ? “The waves are pumping ,there’s guys everywhere getting changed into their wetsuits .Theres a sign on Beau Bridges ( well known photographer ) shopfront saying he will be closed until later as the waves are epic today .” Emma declares …….WTF!
I drive to work , sliding up through Redondo until I hit the coastal stretch that sits up high looking down the coast . I usually get into work with 5 minutes to spare , today I’ll use those 5 minutes up to check the waves out from Redondo beach . The waves here are generally a bit smaller as the swell direction can miss it , but this morning ? The first thing I see when I walk to the edge is a guy exiting a perfect barrel …absolutely no bullshit …it has rarely if ever been this good since I’ve been in LA . 
I mope back into the car with a tear in my eye . That’s the third swell event in 5 weeks and you’ve missed it again ,and all of it is within view ……..Get to work .Suck it up princess ….. better luck next time .” 
aussiehowieinla 